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Bobigny: from ruins to remembrance site

The former Bobigny deportation station. © H. Perrot

For some years now, the town of Bobigny has wanted to showcase the site of its former deportation train station by means of a landscape and scenographic development programme. The goal of the project is to reveal a little-known historic remembrance site to the general public, while preserving its original topography and integrating it with the urban landscape.

The Landing Beaches, Normandy 1944

Canadian troops land on Bernières-sur-Mer beach in the Juno sector, 6 June 1944. © Library and Archives Canada / Région Normandie

Every year, millions of visitors come to the landing beaches to contemplate the traces left by the largest amphibious and airborne operation of all time. Transformed by the landings of June 1944, this coastal landscape today appears at peace. However, its conservation and recognition remain a key issue.

From camps without memory to remembrance without camps

Internment camp for French and foreign Jews at Pithiviers, near Orléans (Loiret), 1941. © Ullstein Bild / Roger-Viollet

There is nothing ludicrous or misplaced about referring to the internment camps as ‘landscapes’. Between 1939 and 1946, as many as 200 camps were set up, and it had a lot to do with their environment. But can one speak of ‘traces’ in the landscape outside that period?

From the coast to the city centres

Flying over the Normandy landing sites. © D. Viola / DICOD

From the Normandy beaches to the bombed, occupied, liberated cities, internment camps to ‘martyr’ villages, the landscapes inherited from the Second World War have been taken over once again by civil society and the authorities, to be made into sites that bear witness to events dating back more than 70 years.

First World War landscapes

First World War landscapes

Dickbuchenweg (Pour Vivre ici). Tirage fine art 60 x 90 cm. OEuvre de Sophie Zénon, photographe plasticienne, représentant la forêt des Vosges dans le secteur du Hartmannswillerkopf, 2017. © S. Zénon

The approach to the landscapes left behind by the First World War is by its very nature multidisciplinary. The collective imagination can easily picture lunar battlefields, ruined villages and trenches several miles long, but history, geography, archaeology, geology, the environmental sciences and the arts must be brought into play to properly grasp the diversity and complexity of those landscapes. Behind the issues linked to reconstruction and tourism addressed in the first and last sections of this issue lie other questions relating to how certain actors perceive the landscapes of the Great War. They become a poetic journey in the pen of Maurice Genevoix, an innovative excavation site for the archaeologist or an inexhaustible fount of creativity for the photographer. This section seeks to shed light on the singularity of the landscapes shaped by the First World War, which were a considerable source of inspiration to contemporaries and continue to resonate today with scientists in all fields.

An artist’s view: Philippe Bréson

Dans les environs d’Albert dans la Somme. © P. Bréson

Philippe Bréson is a photographer and visual artist and teaches photography at art schools. Based on seven years of research carried out across the former regions of the front, in 2017 and 2018 he put on a number of exhibitions on the landscapes of the First World War. Cicatrices (‘Scars’) was presented at the Centre André Malraux in Le Bourget and Mnémosis was shown at the French Embassy in the United States and at the international lycées of San Francisco and Washington.

An artist’s view: Sophie Zénon

Après un Rêve (Pour Vivre Ici) [After a Dream (To Live Here)]. Fine art print, 45 x 30 cm. Detail from a polyptych of 15 photographs. © S. Zénon

Photographer and visual artist Sophie Zénon looks at the question of restoring the memory of Hartmannswillerkopf (HWK), the scene of fighting in the First World War, whose peculiarity is that its front line lay along the Franco-German border. In 2017, she became artist in residence at the Abri-Mémoire in Uffholtz, an educational space for the public where she undertook a creative project and gave a workshop.

The environmental impact

The Place à Gaz, Meuse. © I. Masson-Loodts

The impact which the First World War had on the environment only began to be studied a few years ago. But as current research keeps on highlighting, its consequences extend beyond the devastated areas, and will go on being felt for years to come. This article proposes to chart the long history of consciousness of the ecological consequences of the First World War.

Geological view of the Chemin des Dames

A French trench on the Chemin des Dames, 1917. © Roger-Viollet

A favourite walk of Louis XV’s two daughters, the unique topography of the Chemin des Dames meant that it became a strategic sector in the fighting in the Aisne in 1914. This sector revealed how geology as a science could play a major role in shaping the events of the First World War.

Archaeological view of the ruined villages

Ornes, a village that “Died for France”, before its destruction, 1916. © Archives du Mémorial de Verdun

Visitors who venture along the Meuse remembrance trails are amazed to discover villages that were completely destroyed in the Battle of Verdun and never rebuilt. Besides the commemorative events held here, these places of contemplation are key heritage sites, which archaeologists are today attempting to explore and safeguard for the future.

The landscapes of Maurice Genevoix

Ravin de la Fragoulle dit le Ravin de la mort. Les Éparges (Meuse), 1917. Détail d’une vue stéréoscopique prise par le soldat Maurice Létang du 53e régiment d’infanterie. © M. Létang/Roger-Viollet

A witness to the suffering of men and animals in the First World War, writer Maurice Genevoix was also a sensitive witness to the destruction of the beautiful landscape of Les Éparges and its subsequent resurrection in peacetime. The landscape of war began as a war on the landscape, to become a landscape of remembrance.

First World War landscapes, palimpsests of violence

Explosion d’obus aux environs de Verdun, pendant la Grande Guerre. © TopFoto/Roger-Viollet

The First World War centenary brought tens of thousands of French and foreign visitors to discover the landscapes left behind by the conflict. Yet some traces are barely visible today, and others need to be read in conjunction with the story of the battles that took place there. From the old front line and occupied areas, to ruined towns and restored woodlands, no landscape was spared by the Great War.

Repurposing military heritage

Fort de Colliure, which houses the National Commando Training Centre.© J-J. Chatard/DICOD

When you visit France, it is not unusual to come across former military forts, citadels or ramparts, either preserved as they were or renovated. So many sites that are the heritage of the Ministry of the Armed Forces. The transfer of ownership forces central and regional government to think about their new uses. The challenge of repurposing military heritage lies in the transformation – or not – of the landscape in which it is situated.

Remembering the Resistance: Mont Valérien

Execution of members of the Manouchian Group on Mont Valérien, 21 February 1944.© Association Les Amis de Franz Stock/ECPAD

Across France, the memory of the Resistance is etched in the landscape in a variety of ways. The monumental structure of the Memorial of Combatant France, on Mont Valérien, became the first of the country’s “Major National Remembrance Sites”. It is without doubt one of the key symbols of the State heritage designation of historic Second World War sites.

Remembering the Resistance: the Vercors maquis

Ruins of Vassieux-en-Vercors, July 1944. © Collection M. Bleicher

In the collective imagination, the landscapes of the Resistance often make one think of the maquis, hilly or wooded areas where men and women sought refuge in order to organise their resistance against the Vichy authorities and the occupier. The Vercors massif, with its natural landscape, reconstructed villages and commemorative monuments, today preserves the memory of the maquisards of 1943-44.

Remembering the ‘martyr’ villages: Maillé

Maillé’s main street, 1945. © Private collection - Maison du Souvenir

Known by some as “the other Oradour-sur-Glane”, this village in Indre-et-Loire had an entirely different fate from its Limousin counterpart, as a memorial landscape. Following the Maillé massacre, even before the war was over, it was decided that the village should be completely rebuilt, a choice not without consequences for the preservation of its memory.

Remembering the ‘martyr’ villages: Oradour-sur-Glane

The Centre de la Mémoire, Oradour-sur-Glane. © C. Janot/Agefotostock

The memorial landscape of Oradour-sur-Glane is striking for its uniqueness. After the war, it was decided that the ruins of the village should be preserved “as they were”. Over the years that followed, many voluntary organisations and government agencies were faced with the challenge of maintaining the site, requiring them to reflect on the marks left in the landscape by the traumas of war.

Remembering the poilus: the Bayonet Trench

The Bayonet Trench today. © A. Roiné/ECPAD/Défense

Another emblematic site of the First World War fighting is the Bayonet Trench, whose very origins make it differ from Notre Dame de Lorette: here, the soldiers’ bodies have not been gathered together in a purpose-built cemetery, but remain where they fell – a fact that situates the story of the Bayonet Trench between myth and reality.

Remembering the poilus: Notre Dame de Lorette

The national cemetery of Notre Dame de Lorette today

After the First World War, the scars of the fighting on the hill of Notre Dame de Lorette were erased from the surrounding landscape but, a century on, France’s largest military cemetery, the monument and the international memorial stand out as a site of remembrance, tribute and commemoration.

Remembering in situ

Le mémorial de Caen. © H-J. Sipérius

In peacetime, the battlefields, beaches, towns and cities affected by war are prepared to host ceremonies and other commemorative rituals for the purposes of passing on the memory of past events, remembering those who lived through them and giving them meaning. Naturally, the surrounding area and landscape are brought into play to ‘commit to memory’ the commemorated history.