The Courneau military training camp

In 1916, the French military command chose to station the African soldiers on Courneau moor. These men came from the territories of former French West Africa: Senegal, Upper Senegal and Niger (present-day Mali), Mauritania, Guinea, Côte d’Ivoire and Dahomey (present-day Benin). Forming the battalions of Senegalese tirailleurs, they landed in Bordeaux, then made their way to La Teste, where they were given military training and language classes.

In 1916 and 1917, more than 27 000 men followed this route.

Once the land had been drained, many soldiers losing their lives in the process, a camp of 400 huts was built to accommodate up to 18 000 men. Owing to the marshland surrounding the camp, the tirailleurs contracted respiratory illnesses which were sometimes fatal. Courneau was soon nicknamed the “camp of misery”. The dead were buried on site.

In autumn 1917, due to the revolution in Russia, the Russian troops were withdrawn from the front and took the place of the tirailleurs at Courneau. Eight thousand men were sent there. Discipline being practically non-existent, there was much trouble with the local population. In the first months of 1918, the camp was emptied of its occupants. Many of them joined work parties; others enlisted in the Foreign Legion.

In January 1918, the camp was reorganised to accommodate the American contingents, mostly artillery units, who landed in Bordeaux and were stationed temporarily at Courneau. From July 1918 to May 1919, successive units stayed at the camp before going to the front. During that period, 87 American soldiers died of “Spanish flu” and were buried in a cemetery created specially for that purpose on 15 February 1918, in the forest of Natus-de-Bas. After the war, the soldiers’ remains were transferred either to the United States or to the Suresnes American Cemetery in Hauts-de-Seine.

The Natus memorial

On 1 November 1967, a memorial was unveiled to the African soldiers who died at the Courneau camp. Designed by architect Phihl, the monument was built with funding from Le Souvenir Français, the veterans ministry, the President of Côte d’Ivoire, veterans’ associations and local councils around Arcachon Bay.

After several years of research, local remembrance organisations, the town council of La Teste de Buch and the Ministry of the Armed Forces succeeded in ascertaining the identities and origins of the Senegalese tirailleurs. In 2018, as part of the First World War centenary commemorations, the Ministry of the Armed Forces had five stone slabs erected, bearing the names of the 956 African soldiers buried in the cemetery, which were unveiled on 11 November. Another stone is inscribed with the names of the Russian soldiers and two French soldiers who are buried on the site.

The Ministry of the Armed Forces plans to enhance the site by creating a remembrance trail at the heart of the cemetery, to shed light on the lives of the soldiers who lived in the Courneau camp.

Another stone slab in memory of the American soldiers stands outside the camp.

There are twenty French soldiers from the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-1871 at rest in an ossuary monument at the cemetery. From WWI, there are 427 French soldiers, 274 Belgian soldiers, nine Russian soldiers and 1 Chinese soldier buried in individual graves. As for WWII, there are 1,355 French soldiers, including 188 in the ossuary, ten Spanish soldiers, one Polish soldier and five Soviet soldiers, one of whom is in the ossuary. Five soldiers who died for France in Indochina are also buried at the cemetery.

In the French section lie the bodies of soldiers and sailors who fell during and as a result of World War I, particularly on the Eastern front: 1,024 French, 22 Serb, 18 Greek, 16 Russian and 1 Bulgarian combatant are buried in individual graves. The remains of 777 French combatants have been placed in an ossuary. In 1961, the southeast section was transferred to the Italian government, which placed in a columbarium the remains of 975 soldiers who had perished in the south of France during World War II and whose bodies were not claimed by their relatives.

An eight-metre high pyramid and two sphinxes were erected in September 1810. They serve as a memorial to Vice-Admiral Latouche-Treville, Commander-in-Chief of French Naval Forces in the Mediterranean, who died in Toulon harbour on 17 August 1804.

The tomb of Marie-Nicolas Ravier, captain of the Armée d’Orient who gave his life for France on 8 October 1917 includes the inscription: “In recognition of care given to his son, Marie-Nicolas Ravier de Dounemari bequeathed half of his fortune to the Hôpital de Saint-Mandrier on 8 January 1919”.

In 1914, the fortified town of Belfort was a major part of France's defence. The 14 forts controlled a gap between the Swiss border and the Vosges. During the first days of the war, a new occupation such as the ones of 1814 and 1871 was feared. That is why a state of siege was put in place by the governor. More than 20,000 women, children, elderly, sick people and foreigners were evacuated to neighbouring departments. Equipment, supplies, buildings...everything was requisitioned as part of the war effort.

However, during the entire conflict, Belfort remained untouched by the major offensives. The front was 20 kilometres away. Daily life was however marked by bombings and the flow of convoys of the wounded. As the war continued and the combats became increasingly violent, the number of wounded continued to rise. Because of such an influx, the 500-bed military hospital was quickly overwhelmed.  The health services had to adapt, and requisitioned public and private buildings. And so the Dollfus Mieg et Compagnie spinning mill, schools in the Montbéliard area and the Rue de Châteaudun as well as the Sainte-Marie secondary school were transformed into temporary hospitals. Adolphe Pégoud, the French fighter ace with six victories under his belt, was transferred to one of these structures after being shot down over Petit Croix on 31 August 1915. He was buried on 3 September in the cemetery at Brasse, where he remained before being exhumed in 1924, when he was buried at the Montparnasse cemetery in Paris.

Altkirch National Cemetery holds the remains of soldiers who died for France during the Alsace offensive in August 1914 and during the Campaign for France in June 1940. Established in 1920 for the graves of soldiers who had been buried throughout the Belfort-Altkirch region and southeast of Mulhouse, it was developed until 1935. Covering 5,153 sqm, the cemetery holds the mortal remains of 1,734 French soldiers, including 139 in two ossuaries, together with 15 Russian soldiers from the First World War. 36 French soldiers killed in 1940 also lie at rest here.

After the Second World War, this cemetery was reorganised in order to bring together the bodies of 1,045 French soldiers and prisoners-of-war from the Haut-Rhin, Germany and Austria who died for France between 1940 and 1945. The bodies of 2,238 Frenchmen including 1,300 in individual graves, 45 Czechs, 19 Russians, one Briton and one Serbian lie here. Two ossuaries contain the mortal remains of 938 soldiers. During the First World War, nearly 25,000 French soldiers died on the slopes of the Hartmannswillerkopf, also known as the "Mangeur d'hommes" (Man-eater) or "Montagne de la Mort" (Mountain of Death).

In remembrance of the soldiers who fought in 1915 in the battles for Metzeral, Rechakerkopf, the Sillacker, the Braunkopf and the Linge, 2,630 French soldiers are buried in this cemetery, of whom 855 lie in an ossuary. Established in 1920, the cemetery was developed up until 1924 to accommodate the remains exhumed from over sixty cemeteries in neighbouring towns.

In the centre of the cemetery there stands an ossuary monument dedicated to the Chasseurs Alpins (Alpine Hunters) of the 66th French Infantry Division, who distinguished themselves in the battles for the Linge and Metzeral in 1915. The Chasseurs battalions lost up to 80% of their men, paying a heavy price in these "battles for observation posts", fought to win strategic objectives and so be in a position to observe movements across the Rhine valley. The mountain range has since become known as "Le tombeau des Chasseurs" (the graveyard of the Alpine Hunters). Many of them are buried in this cemetery.

Not far from here, the summit of the Linge, together with its fortified engineering works, have been listed as historic monuments since 1982.

Located on Hajus Hill, Sainte-Croix-aux-Mines National Cemetery contains the bodies of 248 French soldiers, including 122 unknown soldiers buried in two ossuaries (45 and 77 soldiers respectively), and two Russian prisoners (graves 109 and 110). Most of these men were killed during the offensives of August to October 1914.  In 1935, the graves of soldiers buried in the municipal cemeteries of Aubure and Lièpvre were moved to this site.

Four bodies of people killed during the Second World War are buried here. Three of them are soldiers killed in June 1940 and the other is a member of the resistance movement, François Artz (grave 46), who was shot dead by occupying troops in November 1944.

Close by is a German cemetery, which was built in December 1916, and which contains the graves of 1,036 people who were killed during the Great War and 136 during the Second World War.